Easter Tramping

After 5 days spent on the third island of NZ and the following Saturday spent climbing Avalanche Peak in Arthurs Pass, it was time to spend some time with friends and so a group of us headed off to Tekapo to a hillside batch overlooking the lake. Amy joined us on the Saturday with Charlotte, their bikini milking had been arranged for the Friday and while I had been invited to attend thought it best to steer clear of the boozing that was sure to take place. By all accounts everyone behaved themselves while at the same time ensuring they were completely inebriated! Richard and I took the opportunity to hit the golf course, the highest registered in NZ, and while I was going strong initially, a few poor holes meant I narrowly lost out to Richards wicked slice. Its all good practice for the father vs son grudge match scheduled for a few months time!

Having previously decided that there were plenty of tramps that were not "great walks", an after the less than stellar Rakiura track it is a little surprising that we opted to tramp the Routeburn during the long Easter weekend. At around 32km it is the shortest great walk but the vast majority is spent where we prefer, above the bushline. The weekend before had been spent on call and so with Thursday off as well we hit the road Wednesday night, making it to Lindis Pass where we parked up by an attractive stream. We had arranged to catch a bus from Glenorchy to the trailhead and by 2:30pm we had set off, destination Routeburn Falls Hut. The


first 90 minutes were a delightful meander along a graded gravel track trying not to step on any of the Riflemen, tiny beret green birds, that were avidly feeding on and around the track. These were one of the few birds we had not managed to see on Stewart Island! The final hour involved a steady climb, though still on an easy path, the valley being left behind as the view opened up. When we reached the "hut" we could be forgiven for looking on it as some kind of upmarket hotel, not the tin shacks we have sometimes used. On a raised platform over the edge of a steep drop-off, the views it commanded were spectacular as we enjoyed the last couple of hours of light, also exploring the nearby waterfalls. Once the sun set and the darkness descended lo and behold there was electric lighting to go with the porcelain flush toilets, not a long drop in sight!

Unfortunately the weatherman was proved correct as the following morning dawned grey with the sky full of rain. While we did miss out on the sweeping views of the far away peaks we had read about, there was still a special splendour as we made it over the pass and down the other side. Lunch was taken in another plush hut, on most people spent their second night in, and we then pushed on another 4 hours to reach Howden hut which was actually a smaller and more intimate affair. The fire was welcome and other occupants ensured the evening was just as enjoyable as the day. Day three was another long one having set our minds on reaching Lower Caples hut, most of the way back down the Caples valley which runs just to the south of the Routeburn. Off the gravel track the going was a little slower and the rain relentless as we made the tiring scramble up a track of tree roots and running water to reach yet another saddle before starting the 6 hour descent down the valley. We passed plenty of wet souls making there way up and were pleased we had the worst behind us. The forest was at its best in the rain with the moss plump and verdant alongside the torrent of water that was pouring off the mountain slopes. We were ready to stop by the time we arrived at the hut though there were no spare beds, the Easter rush showing in this very popular area. thankfully a couple of mats were found and after drinking the last of our wine a good nights sleep was not a problem. the final day was an easy 2 hour affair, our return transport arriving on cue to take us back to Gordon who, after a night in Queenstown enjoying civilisation (and a very nice meal for our 2nd wedding anniversary!), took us home without a hitch.

Eight weeks of Action and a Fortnight of Fun - part 2

Both Amy and I were then only back for a 3 day week before it was time to fly down to Invercargill and make our way over to Stewart Island, just off the south of South Island. Before we left though there was just time to squeeze in a massive charity auction. Amy had mooted the idea of a fund raiser at work with the proceeds going to help the victims of the Christchurch earthquake. The idea was for a slave auction of clinic staff with clients invited. A couple of weeks later and much hard work by Amy and the team, there were over 100 items (including calf food, a helicopter ride, cakes, DVD player...), 2 professional auctioneers had been recruited and local business had been outstanding in their support. The top lot for the night was Amy and Charlotte (our receptionist) auctioning themselves off for milking in bikinis. The top bid for the was a massive $5000 and the total for the night came in around $32000. Outstanding!

We had heard horror stories about the crossing from Bluff to Oban and so were very grateful to find the sea glassy on our arrival at the harbour. The crossing was swift and we were soon checking into Jo and Andys B&B. We had earmarked the first 2 days for relaxation and so booked ourselves on a trip to Ulva Island, a small "predator free" haven in a sheltered bay that has been used for the release and breeding of endagered birds. Our guide did tell us at the start however that over 100 rats had been trapped the previous month and so they appear to be breeding on the island again, a real concern. As far as bird life went we saw plenty including Bell Birds, Robin, Weka, Tomtit, Fantail, Tui, Kereru, Kaka and 3 of the near extinct Saddleback. We were also told plenty about the ferns and trees around us and the 4 hour guided trip was certainly to be recommended. The next day the infamous Stewart Island rain was with us for the morning but, having come prepared, we headed out on a morning walk to explore some of the bush around the only settlement on the island. The afternoon was for reading, sleeping and then watching the Super 15 rugby in the pub.

The following morning we shouldered our packs and set out on the Raikiura track. This is designated as one of the "Great Walks" and so we had already prebooked our 2 huts for the trip. The first day was a gentle walk first along the waterfront road and then along the coastline for 12km to Port William hut. The track was a gravel path for most of the way which allowed less time looking at feet and more time taking in the best the island has to offer. The rugged coastline looks to have weathered many a storm, light drizzle was the worst we experienced, and it must have been hard living for those islanders who tried to make a living a century or so ago primarily from logging. The hut was ferociously warm, the Irish warden having fed the fire for the whole morning, and so after dumping packs we explored the nearby headland for a couple of hours. After bush bashing down to a secluded beach we met up with the northern circuit and briefly experienced the thigh deep mud this 10 day slog is well known for, a little harder than our gravel path! Stewart Island is one of the best places to spot a kiwi in the wild which is why we did not hit the sack at our normal tramping bedtime of 9pm. Around midnight we snuck out and after only 20 minutes a rustle in the bushes focused our attention. The full moon illuminated the scene as sure enough a kiwi emerged and in its curiosity came right up to investigate. It got so close, pecking the ground every now and then, that Amy was worried her exposed toes were on the menu and with a little movement the small bird scuttled back into the bush. Day 2 was another 12km over the hill to North Arm hut through the lush, moss covered forest. the intermittent showers and grey skies made little difference as we were mainly tramping under tree canopy with very little scope for extended views regardless of weather. As the tide went out after arriving at lunchtime we explored the coastline a little, some people collecting mussels before spending another social evening with our fellow trampers. the final day was the same lenght again but a little more interesting as the track has not yet been fully upgraded. the meant we could experience some more of the famed mud before a sampling a pint and pub meal once back in Oban. the afternoon ferry was just a calm as our arrival and we were soon flying back up to Christchurch after a relaxing break. As for the tramp, for us it did not live up to the term "great walk" with both of us agreeing that it is far better to be above the bushline. It was though a good intro to what Stewart island is about, a real untouched wilderness.