Friday, 31 December 2010

3 in a Van and an Aoraki Christmas

First stop with Mum and Dad was Kaikoura (where the missing bags caught us up), about 3.5 hours up the coast and renown for its wildlife, most notably whales. Amy's luck at on the whale watching trip was poor with a heavy swell causing half the participants (or victims) to revisit their breakfast and no wildlife spotted. As a result we were a bit apprehensive especially as we were told a seasickness warning had been issued already for our evening trip. As it turned out the sea was glassy and as we entered the water over the ocean trench responsible for attracting the whales, the captain pulled out his special whale-listening-tracking device and was soon speeding off to find a nearby Sperm whale. Soon enough we were stopped about 30 meters from the surfaced whale as it rested in preparation for another foraging dive. It stayed there quite happily for around 10 minutes, occasionally letting fly a plume of water from its blowhole, before diving and showing us the classic whale tail view. Each dive lasts around 45 minutes and so once it had descended we headed off to find something else to see. Soon enough we were in the middle of a huge pod of around 60 Dusky dolphins. These turned out to be real acrobats and were soon leaping and cartwheeling, real show offs! It was actually a shame to leave them to return to the whale as it surfaced again right on time.

Next stop was Picton and not wanting to indulge Mum and Dad too much we stopped at a basic DoC camp ground just out of town in a delightful bay. A little sit down and some bbj (bread butter jam) later it was time to head off on a ramble to the Queen Charlotte Viewpoint. It was good to start a little later as the heat dropped and the walk was very pleasant. The view was fantastic, looking up the whole length of the sound with a few secluded specks of buildings the only indication of the great walk which runs the whole length of this waterway. Turning back the weather looked to be coming in and sure enough by the time we were back I hurried to peg out my guys for fear of losing the tent completely. The rain was heavy overnight but the cloud was not too thick the following morning to completely obscure the view from the scenic route through to Havelock, the muscle capital of NZ apparently. We only stopped for a coffee and cake before arriving at Pelorus Bridge, a beautiful spot even in the rain. There was only 1 other van in the DoC campsite (this time with hot water!) and while Mum and Dad went on a short walk I wondered up the river spotting a couple of fish but failing to tempt either. Wednesday dawned wet again and so we took the opportunity for a look around Nelson before retreating to a fantastic restaurant that was a converted boat shed hovering over the water. It was then a short-ish drive further round the coast to Kaiteriteri, just south of Able Tasman National Park. Feeling a bit cold and like she had slummed it enough, Mum put her foot down and insisted on staying in an en suite motel unit for the two nights we were there rather than another night in Gordon. This did mean I got my van back for a good nights sleep!

Thankfully the sun then made an appearance and we enjoyed some good weather for our boat trip up the coastline before being dropped off and walking a couple of hours back along the much trodden coastal route. Being a great walk there were some great facilities for a "wilderness" with plenty of toilets, campsites and one huge hut in the process of being done up. We were picked up again and sped back to the campsite where I then went off to try and hire a bike to ride around the newly created mountain bike park. Track one down I did and then could only manage 2.5 hours of the allotted 4 hour hire time before my legs refused to cycle 1 more revolution. The park was fantastic and definitely made me look forward to some more biking back home with Amy and I having already decided to get bikes for Christmas. We were now ending our week away and it was time to turn south. First stop was St Arnaud in the Nelson Lakes. We had been warned about the ferocity of the sand flies here and unfortunately these rumours had not been exaggerated. I want for a fish in the afternoon managing to catch just one but not after seeing two of the largest black eels imaginable swim up to me while I was wading into position. I moved on very quickly! We hid from the blood suckers after I got back, eating out in the hotel, and the following morning headed over Lewis Pass to Hanmer Springs. the crossing from west to east was accompanied by a remarkable change in weather as the torrential rain stopped in the space of a km or so and was replaced by blue skies and bright sunshine. While Mum went shopping Dad and I found out that his golf lessons had not been going so well as I beat him at pitch and put! This was our last stop and on Sunday Gordon was upgraded to a plush camper complete with shower, toilet and microwave for their next leg of the holiday.

It was only a couple of weeks, and an enjoyable weekend spent up at Lake Heron, later that we then found Christmas upon us and straight after work finished we drove up to Glentanner just short of Mount Cook to join Mum and Dad for the festivities. Although our second hot Christmas in a row, it still feels very wrong, especially with all the songs going on about snow, warm fires and the cold. Still, Christmas day ended up being truly glorious with epic views of the high peaks that surrounded us. We walked up the Hooker valley before lunch which consisted of a spread fit for royalty as Amy had spent t
he week before making dishes for the ultimate picnic. Needless to say the rest of the day was spent in relaxation mode! Boxing day saw the weather turn though thankfully not quickly enough to ruin our boat trip on the lake created by the Tasman Glacier. It was fun to get up right next to the floating icebergs that have been carved off the terminal face of the glacier. Dinner was another treat, eating out at the Old Mountaineer restaurant in Mount Cook village. By the time we turned in we were rocked to sleep in our respective vans by the wind and come morning the ground was saturated. Packing up, we ended up back home as there was little sign of improvement on the journey back to Ashburton. It was then but a short time untill the folks were packing their bags for Hong Kong, the next leg of the trip.

2 comments:

  1. I adored Kaikoura's whale trip too, Alex, and 'got' 5 whales, one of which is caught on camera - but the others much more firmly stayed in my mind. And I lost my breakfast too! An albatross crossed over and was enormous, I'd no idea they were that size. would like to have seen more Dolphins, but was glad to see just the few we did. Thanks for sharing!

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  2. Mum said you had "the" photo! We did not see much bird life at all but Mum got a few ticks on her bucket list for sure. Still lots of catching up to do, just processing the photos from our 4 day tramp...

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